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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, situated prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small place achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.